
| Housing - 7-10 gallons of water PER FROG. You can keep 1 frog in a 10 gallon, but keep in mind they are social creatures, and would be happier with company. You can house 2 frogs in a 20 gallon LONG tank. They need the long tank in order to stretch out their legs and swim. Their livelihood, and growth will be stunted if kept in a small tank. Feeding- I feed my frogs once a day with as much food as they will eat in 15 minutes.A little while later i will remove any uneaten food so the water will not get polluted. Froglets are suppose to be fed 1x a day. Adult frogs fed 2-3 xs a week. If you are not careful to remove uneaten food, your tank will get infested with Planaria. These are tiny flatworms that slither up the sides of the glass. They are a result of excess food in the tank; due mostly to overfeeding. African clawed frogs need a carnivorous diet. Reptomin is an excellent main food for these frogs. It contains what they need for proper growth and overall health. Some other foods, but not limited to - are: *Krill - freeze -dried *Tubifex worms - cubes or fresh *sinking shrimp pellets *Bloodworms - freeze-dried (i use these rarely because of the sudden bloat they can cause in the frogs) *feeder gupppies *Brine shrimp *frozen brine shrimp *frozen beef heart For newly changed froglets: *HBH Frog and Tadpole bites - this is a tiny soft, sinking food for newly changed froglets. You can train a frog in a matter of days for feeding time. At the same time everyday, i would gently tap of the tank. Then i place food (in the same spot every day)....in a corner of the tank. If the frog seemed timid, i would gently coax him up with my hand to where the food was. Once they realize you are offering them food, they catch on quick! I have trained frogs in 3 days to come up for food ON THEIR OWN once i tap on the tank. ....Whenever i tap on the tank now, they go nuts knowing they are going to eat! Filtration - There are several good types of filters. I use a waterfall type in my tanks. You can use a 24" plastic vine with suction cups to position it under the filter to break the water falling into the tank-lessing the disturbance to the frogs. Never change the biological filter in your filter, just the disposible one. I change my filters every 2 1/2-3 weeks. *1x a month take the filter apart and clean out the impeller very well. Hair and muck will likely be in it, and this can cause your filter not to run efficiently. Air pump - An air pump is NOT NEEDED. These frogs come to the surface for air because they have lungs. Heater - A heater is NOT NEEDED because they are cool-water frogs. I do keep a thermometer in the tank to monitor the temp. Ideal water temp is between 68-75 degrees F (20-23 degrees C) Water Level- I fill my tanks 3/4 up. I leave 2-3" from the top to prevent escapes. (these frogs are known to escape) Do not use distilled water. Bottled water or treated tap is fine. When i say treated i mean with a water conditioner, such as Stress Coat. This product removes chlorine from the water. I do 20% water changes every 1- 1/2 weeks. Ph range should be between 6.5-8.5 *EVERYTIME I do water changes, I religiously use the 3 important products : Aquarium salt (keeps fungus in check), Stress Coat (removes chlorine and metals and replaces natural slime coating of frogs). and Koizyme (prevents Redleg). Others would, and have argued against the benefits of Koizyme, but I have never had a bacteria problem in my tanks, or an incidence of Redleg. Cover for Tank - This is a must! These frogs will jump right out of the tank. You can purchase a 'Versatop' for any tank size. DO NOT USE METAL SCREENS! Metal ions are toxic to frogs! *you will have gaps around the filter and such. I use that soft flexible plastic sheeting ( used for needlepoint) and i can custom cut that to fit around anything. I then secure that with pieces of duct tape. You can also use that plastic orange netting that produce comes in. Make sure there is ventilation with the cover. Substrate - I know river rock and gravel look great, but they trap A LOT of waste! Let alone the fact that the frogs ingesting gravel can kill them! I had to get use to having a bare-bottom tank, but i will tell you, the ease of cleaning wins over my decision. Handling - You can handle these frogs to a minimum. You don't want to damage their slime coating, which helps protects them against bacteria. My frogs will sit in my hand while in the water. Do not remove these frogs from the water, they need to stay moist. Lighting - I have mixed feelings on lighting. I have it on 1 of my tanks, and everytime i put it on, the frogs freak out! These frogs don't require any special lighting, but a light on during days hours may help keep brown algae at bay. Hiding Spots - These frogs feel most comfortable when they have a place to hide. Some people use terracotta pots placed on their side, or a cup. I just use pothos cuttings. My frogs LOVE hanging out among these. They root in the tank and last a good while. if any of the leaves turn brown, just remove that leaf. They are other plants you can use such as Anubias affixed to driftwood also. *If you use an old flower pot, ot other cave, make sure to keep an eye on the frogs growth, as it may grow too big for the enclosure and be unable to escape; resulting in drowning. Tank Maintenance- Everyone has a different method to their tank maintenance, and that's okay. What may work for one person may not work for another. I will share with you what i do with my tanks. I have several tanks, and i generally do the same thing with each of them. Additives - I use tap water treated with Stress Coat. I also add aquarium salt, and Koizyme to the water. These additives will protect your frogs slime coat,reduce fungal growth and the bad bacteria that would otherwise lead to Redleg-a fatal disease. These are the 3 things i use religiously in my ACF tanks. Filters - I buy filters with the capacity to filter a tank much larger than the tank i actually use it in. Over-filtering is a great idea since these frogs are very messy creatures. Try to buy a filtering system with biological media included. The biological media will eventually help protect against the bad bacteria. You are not suppose to really clean the bio media, but gently rinse it - otherwise it would ruin the bio cycle in the tank. I would however, change the disposable filter cartridge every 3 weeks or so ( it depends how dirty it is ); this is different from the bio media in the filter - as you would not discard that. Water changes- Aside from that, i fill the tank close to 3/4 full, maybe a tad less, as ACF are known escape artists. I do a partial water change every 3 weeks or so. Maybe 25-50%. It depends. I have found that it does not hurt to do a 50 % water change. The frogs will welcome fresh cool water. Make sure the temp is between 65-72 degrees F. I have also been told by a reputable source -not to do water changes. I am not sure about that; but as i said before, everyone has a system that works for them. Waste/Food removal - There will always be an accumulation of waste and leftover food. The PennPlax Battery Operated Vac is a quick way (in under a minute), to go over the bottom of the tank to pick up waste. You should do this everyday or every two days, at the most. Uneaten food left in the tank will only be a breeding ground for Planaria , a tiny worm that will infest the whole tank; or to bacteria building up. I also use a turkey baster to remove little things floating around here and there. Glass cleaning - Every now and then you are going to notice muck accumulating on the inside of the glass in the tank. I simply use a scraper made for tanks to wipe down the glass. It is simple to use and does a great job of cleaning. I generally do this step first before I do a water change. You probably will only need to do this 1x each month. Ornament cleaning - Ornaments always collect waste and food in the tank. It is one of the reasons I don't use them anymore. What you do to clean them is to simply run them under hot water in the sink to clean. Sometimes I would add a drop of bleach to disinfect as well. If you do this, be absolutely SURE to rinse very well. A good time to do this would be at each water change. |



| I have learned a lot over the years, and this information is what works best for me. |


Quieting the water outflow For water-fall type filters I use aquarium sealant to glue a piece of plastic screen (the type used for needlepoint) to the outflow area of the waterfall-type filter. The screen is safe and flexible and can be cut to fit anything. Here is an example of what i did. It quieted the filter 99%! 1. Remove the filter, and make sure the area you are 'gluing' is completely dry. 2. *Before you cut a piece of the plastic screen, make sure it extends down into the tank low enough to reach the water surface, (which should ideally be at least 3" from the top of tank, to prevent escapes) The point being, the closer to the water, the less splash, and therefore less noise you will have from the outflow. Just glue a piece of plastic screen with the aquarium sealant that is the size of the outflow area (width) & (length) to reach the water surface, . Let this dry overnight, then return the filter to the tank the next morning. SEE PIC BELOW |
| Preventing escapes- 1. Keep the water level down to at least 3" from the top. 2. Make sure there are NO HOLES whatsoever. 3. *Filters- I use the waterfall type of filters. I find that there were spaces around the filter and the tank cover. This is how i remedied that situation. *I used that flexible needlepoint sheeting. It easily cuts to fit anything. *I used duct tape to secure the sheeting. SEE PIC BELOW |